Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.